In the Lisa and Kimberly Hacks series, I am showing you how to use these 2 patterns as a base and -with a little bit of drafting- create a different garment. I have been enjoying this series so much because it gets my creative juices flowing and it’s very rewarding when a hack works out. In today’s tutorial, I am mainly showing you how to draft a scoop neckline. But I also changed played around with the patterns to create a fun little dress. Let’s see how I did it!
You will need:
–a piece of paper
-pencil and scissors
-a ruler and a measuring tape
-a French curve (optional)
-your fabric and basic sewing tools
Let’s begin with the neckline. This modification is actually pretty simple. You just have to redraw the lines and draft new facing pieces. Determining how scooped the neckline will be is a personal choice. You can make it as low as you like and as scooped as you like, depending on the style you are going for. If you are unsure, it is always best to make a toile first!
In this example. I wanted my neckline to have a bit of a U shape. I placed the front bodice piece on my body and pretty much eyeballed it. I ended up raising the neckline at the V-point a little bit and then used my French curve to draft the shape, matching the raised part to the original shoulder seam.
Then, I drafted the facing. This is very simple as well. You basically use the bodice piece as a template and draw the neckline. Then, you decide how wide you want the facing to be. In my case I wanted it to be 5 cm so I measured that distance from the neckline I drew and drafted the facing piece.
For the back bodice, I kept all the pieces exactly as they were on the Kimberly dress.
But I also wanted to play around with the overall style of the garment. Since I was using a very playful Art Gallery cotton poplin for Minerva, I decided to go for a short, girly dress with a ruffled hem. I used the Lisa dress skirt pieces (which are interchangeable with the Kimberly dress skirt pieces) and shortened them by A LOT. In size 10, the shortened pieces were X cm long. Because I didn’t want to cut my main pattern piece, I traced the skirt pieces on a second piece of paper to the length that I wanted and then used the hemline of the original pieces as a guide to draw the hem on the shorter pieces.
I then drafted the ruffle pieces for the hem. I won’t go into much detail here, because I have a step-by-step tutorial for a ruffled hem HERE.
The only thing I want to point out is that because my fabric was both narrow and directional, to get the width I wanted for the ruffles I had to cut out 4 pieces instead of 2, which were joined in the middle. You can’t really notice those seams on the final dress and it’s a simple thing to do if you have a fabric with a directional print, just don’t forget to take into account that extra seam allowance.
The construction of this mini Kimberly dress was the same as if I were making the original + the ruffled hem addition. Other than that, the changed shape of the neckline does not affect the steps you have to follow. The process remains the same, it’s only the shapes that were different.
I think this modification was absolutely PERFECT for the fabric I chose. From the moment I saw those cute ice creams I knew I had to do them justice by picking a suitable style. This pretty dress will be my best friend during our holidays 😊
I hope you liked this hack and if you do try it, please send me an e-mail or tag me on social media. I would LOVE to see it.
Until the next time, happy sewing!