Are you ready for another addition to the “Samantha Hacks Series”? Today -with the help of my beautiful mom- I’m going to show you how to change the skirt to a maxi pencil style with a side slit. This modification is actually pretty easy so let’s get started!
You will need:
-straight ruler, measuring tape, pen and scissors
-your basic dressmaking tools
Start by constructing the bodice, following the instructions in the booklet, up until the step where you try it on and baste the wrap parts.
Then, you will have to draft the pencil skirt. The front and back pieces are identical so start by drawing a rectangle using the following measurements:
- Measure the front waistline of the bodice and write that down. We will slightly gather the top part of the skirt before attaching it, so add a little bit of extra width there (approximately 5-10 cm, but it depends on how gathered you want it to be)
- Measure from your natural waist down to your desire length. You can make the skirt as long as you want to, just don’t forget to add 1 cm seam allowance at the top and 2 cm hem allowance at the bottom.
- If you wish to add a side slit, measure from your waist down to where the slit should begin.
Draft a rectangle piece with those measurements, mark a notch for the slit to one side and cut 2 identical pieces.
To sew up the skirt, place the pieces right sides together at the side seams. Stitch one side seam all the way. Stitch the other side seam up to the slit notch. Press the seam allowances open.
While you are at your iron, at the slit part you are also going to press the slit 1 cm (3/8″) towards the inside, wrong sides together.
Now go ahead and stitch the folded slit in place using a wider zigzag stitch and created a Π shape at the top of the slit, when moving from one side to the other. Give it a good press.
At the skirt’s waistline, sew a long gathering stitch at the front and one at the back. Don’t backstitch and leave long tails to gather up the fabric. Gather the front and back separately until the skirt waistline has the same width as the bodice.
Insert the bodice to the skirt, right sides together and matching at the waistline, following the instructions in the pattern booklet. Make sure you distribute the gathers evenly. Pin and stitch in place.
Hem your dress and give everything a good press! You are ready!
Disclaimer: To make my Samantha top I used this beautiful cotton jersey, very kindly gifted to me by Lamazi Fabrics. James and Liana stock an amazing selection of high quality jersey fabrics, so make sure you go and have a look at their shop to find fabric for your makes.